Disclaimer: The photo is not taken by me. No offense meant 
Somebody wrote:
Though hundreds of men have scaled
up it’s back,
It forever retains it’s pristine beauty
and virginity!
Clad in its eternal mantle of pure
whiteness,
Stands that lofty citadel of ice and
snow,
A place where the very God’s dwell!
On reaching it’s summit up high,
It is not the peak we only conquer
each time;
But we conquer ourselves!
Displaying indomitable will and
human sprit,
To rise above all earthly fetters!
To aspire and to reach,
Where only the brave, the courageous,
and the stout-hearted,
Do dare, and forever excel!
How true!! For I felt it today…
5AM in the morning we were ready. There was never a sleep the previous night. This was the day we strived all the way for. the 16500ft was not in my mind for I’d been to far higher altitudes before, but the un-paralled view of majestic peaks that surrounds the sacred Nandadevi the Junargali top offers was what I was dreaming of.
Roopkund Crater - seen from Bhagubasa
We started to our destination after a small Bhajan and I had decided to be the lead for the day and hence carried the ice axe and marched along with our guide Mahendra. A few were scared of the altitude and the Bengali aunty had decided to not to take a chance and had lent her sunglasses to me. A million thanks to her for the awesome Rayban that saved my eyes.
Bramhakamala - Flower of the God
The path gradually ascends until a snake like climb called Chiriyanag. The air started to get thinner with the altitude and the chillness factor added to our breathlessness. There were strict orders from our guide not to take out the cameras until we reach the destination for it could be fatal if one lose concentration on the path. Guide Mahendra ji decided to regroup before we start climbing the snow. Since I was way ahead of the rest of the group, I got a chance to take out my cam and click a few snaps. This place is known for flowers named Bhramakamal and Neelkamal. These are a pleasure to view and are found only in these regions above 13000 feet. We had been advised not to pluck those precious flowers, if found. But all we could find were dead flowers. But we still did take photos!
The frozen lake: Roopkund
Once we entered the snow zone there was no stopping. On the snow I was more comfortable than rest of the group and ran behind the guide. It was fun to carry ice axe and dig out steps. There was rope fixed to help climb but I was determined not to use it. The route takes us along the crater and Roopkund lies hidden until we climb the final ridge. The first rays of Sun hit me when I climbed the last step of the ridge voila! there lies the sacred lake that captured the beauty of Maa Parvathi. There lies the deadly lake that hides the bones of hundreds of people who have mysteriously died. There is a small shiv-parvathi mandir at the entrance of the lake and prayed to God and thanked him for the beautiful weather. Then climbed up the ridge for a fun slide on the soft snow. It was sunny by the time rest of the people arrived and the crystals were reflecting the light 100 times magnified. Without sunglasses i’d have been snow blinded.
Bones!! - In front of Roopkund
Unfortunately the entire lake was frozen. The only luck we had was a small fissure at the centre of the crater where we could see some water. I got down the crater with a porter up to the point the ice beneath me started to crack and did not dare go further. The biggest mystery of the lake is the bone deposit of hundreds of people. Most of them were hidden inside the layers of ice, but as a symbol A few are kept near the mandir. Once everybody reached the place we had a quick breakfast (1paratha each) and geared up for the next feat – Junargali.
Enroute Junargali
Roopkund is at 15600ft and Junargali is at 16200ft. Its a 600ft steep climb above Roopkund. Only 16 out of 24 people decided to try the climb and we set out at 9AM. The initial climb is easy with soft snow but it gets really tricky once the steep climb starts. The foot grip made by ice axe helps but one wrong foot will only add more bones to the Roopkund which lies right beneath us. Absolutely no chance of survival. The last few feet climb below the Junargali ridge is really scary and even the courageous heart skips a beat. Thanks to the porters as they helped us climb this part and after a few more feet was the end of our mission. The feel of the satisfaction cannot be explained in words. No adjectives can supplement the gap between what one feels and what one can explain. After all, its the mighty Himalayas!
Junargali : View to the right(Kalidakh range)
Ronti saddle and Mt. Trishul, A view from Junargali Pass
We had spend a good 20 minutes by the time everybody reached the top. I had the pleasure of staying the longest as I reached first and left the last. I was in no mood to leave the place but we had to move on. We had to decent the slippery slopes before the Sun worsens the situation. A slight change in the weather could have been fatal.
Sliding from Junargali to Roopkund (Photo courtesy: Ravindra)
We path down to Roopkund was scary and slippery in the beginning but was loads of fun at the end. We slid down about 100 feet straight down the snow once and other small slides. The experience was thrilling. By the time we reached roopkund, the rest of the folks had started their descent. I started last with porters and removed the rope that was fixed to help people climb. The ropes were helpful in climbing down as the snow was very slippery. We reached Bhagubasa by 11AM.
Bedini Bugiyal after a snowfall (Photo courtesy: Nitin Bhatt)
After a quick lunch, we left Bhagubasa towards Kaluvinayak. Our goal was to reach Bedini and it was a long journey from here. The weather started deteriorating by the time we reach Kaluvinayak. I had no rain poncho. I gave my camera to Ambareesh and rushed down. There was no shelter for the next one hour when it was pouring cats and dogs. By the time I reached Patar Nachunia it was a different scenario. Now, it was hailstorm for more than an hour. I was completely numb and my fingers were almost blue. There was heavy snow fall and it was completely white with snow and mushy.
There was snow in my jacket, there was snow in my shoes,ears and mouth. I walked and walked, alone, and when I reached Ghora lotani I was surprised at the view of Bedini bugiyal. When we left the place 3 days back, it was all green, calm and the lake was clear. Now, it was all white and frozen. after n hour’s walk I reached Bedini only to figure out that our tents and bags are yet to arrive from Bhagubasa. For the first time, I was faster than the mules! with cold getting unbearable, we requested the kitchen folks there to prepare tea and hot maggi for us. Once the tents and bags arrived, I changed and slept one good sleep before rest of the folks arrived.
View from Bedini and (inset: Trishul. Photo courtesy Deepak)
(L to R)Mt.Choukamba, Kedar Range, Mt.Neelkant, Mt.Nandagunti and Mt.Trishul
The weather cleared up that evening and we could watch the sunset. The last rays of sun kissing Trishul was worth all the hardships. Oh yaa that night was memorable because it was a full moon day! That night we spent relishing all the good things that happened to us watching the star lit sky. The snow clad mountains in that moonlight will never get erased from memory. After all a few things are better remembered than captured!
That night, I slept peacefully
Summary:
* Day’s trek: Bhagubasa – Roopkund – Junargali – Bhagubasa – Pattar Nachuni – Ghoda loutani – Bedini bugiyal Distance: Approx 22kms
*Leave Bhagubasa at 5AM. Reach Roopkund by 8AM. *It takes 45 minutes max to reach Junargali. The descent to Roopkund is just 15 mins.
* One can reach either Bedini or decide to stay an extra day at Bhagubasa if tired.
*Success rate to Roopkund is only 60% and to Junargali is only 20%. It is heavily dependent on weather. It can change in minutes and ruin the plan. Do pray before you leave!
*Best time to visit: July/September-October
*Respect the mountains. They are sacred. Do not use plastic.
To watch the nature’s beauty at its best is an eternal bliss. Little did I know that one such present was waiting for me. All I had to do was to come out of the sleeping bag and open the tent’s zip!
Trishul and Kalidakh
It was 6AM in the morning, the grass in front of tent was misty green with numerous pearls of dew reflecting the Sun who had just managed to peep out of mountain ridge. The land abruptly ended and it was a bit cloudy but the beautiful snow covered peaks of Nandadevi sanctuary glowing gold sunbathing the first rays. With eyes still half opened, got hold of my camera and came out of the tent. There was Choukamba, Haati, Ghoda, Neelkant, Kedar range and Bandar poonch peaks on to East but were partially visible and Nandagunti, chanyakot, Trishul and Kalidakh on to south which were clearly visible.
Today’s trek was just a 3 hour one and we had to cover around 5kms. We could see half the route, ie. from Bedni to Ghoda loutani. We left the camp and leisurely started walking to the destiny. Every step was taking us closer to Trishul. This time I decided to be sweeper of the group with Rajesh and hence was kilometers behind the rest of the folks. The inclination was very less and the walk was comfortable. Nandagunti and Trishul began to disappear behind Kaluvinayak range.
On the way to Ghoda Loutani
Ghora Lotani
We took a break at Ghoda loutani. The name has an interesting story behind it. During British reign, their horses used to feed in this area and they would reach until this point grazing but return back and never go beyond. Hence named Ghoda Loutani. From this place, our campsite Pattar Nauchoni was steep down and was the only place where water spring was available. We reached campsite by 12:30.
Patar Nachauni Campsite
Mt.Mactoli - The source of Pindari glacier
It was a wise decision to reach the place before noon as it started raining just after we settled in our tents. The weather sent shivers down our spine as we had lunch inside the porters tent. The rains stopped after a while and the clouds partially cleared to reveal the majestic Mactoli and Mrigthuni peaks from which the famous Pindari glacier originate. Then there was majestic black Kalidakh posing with fresh snow on its rocky layers. As an add-on, there was a Rainbow at the base of Kaluvinayak forming a semicircled entrance ring to the mountain.Check this! I wondered, how many times in a lifetime do you get to see a rainbow below you?!!
It started to rain again and Smita, Poonam, Neelima, Deepak and myself sneaked into a tent. Zillions of topics – from photography till generation gap – came under the scanner until Rajesh summoned us for the dinner. The night after such a rainfall at 12500ft was our plight to deal with.
Choukamba and friends - View from Kaluvinayak
The next morning I was woken up early and forcefully dragged to start the climb without breakfast at 6:30AM by Poonam – well 90 minutes ahead of others. Nitin ji and Kunalji accompanied us. In a way it proved to be bonus as I got all the time in the world to click the photos and enjoy the beauty Himalayas can offer waiting for the lady to climb
Pattar Nachunia to Baghubasa is a 3 hour climb. The path is very steep and exhilarating and one needs to cross the mighty Kaluvinayak. Kaluvinayak is at 15000ft and claims a significant place in the history and mythology. This is the place where lord Ganesha stood guarding Kailash when maa Parvathi went to take bath in Roopkund. This was the place where Lord Shiva beheaded Ganesha and rejuvenated him with a tusker’s head.
Views from Kaluvinayak
Kaluvinayak temple
We reached Kaluvinayak by 9AM and began to explore the place before the rest of the team could reach the place. There is a Ganesh mandir at the peak which overlooks Mt.Trishul. We could see the Chanyakot – Kalidakh range completely and it houses our destination – Roopkund. The weather was at its best. Once everybody reached the place, we offered pooja to the Lord. The KMS team had bought sandalwood garland and sweets from Bengal to offer to the lord. Then Rajesh declared that we’ll be try to hit Roopkund the same day as the weather looks great!
Roopkund crater as seen from Bhagubasa
Climbers at Junargali Pass - as seen from Bhagubasa
On hearing this there was a sense of adrenaline rush and we raced towards Bagubhasa. The entire 2km path was rocky and we covered it in about 15-20 minutes. We blocked our tents and had to wait for the previous team to return from Roopkund and clear out the tents before we could occupy. By the time the other group came back, we noticed dark clouds appearing above Kalidakh. The views of the Roopkund crater looked very tempting. But we decided not to take a chance with weather and we’d try Roopkund the next day. We bid farewell to the team which had completed the summit successfully.
Frozen Plates - Dare wash it (Photo courtesy: Neelima)
As usual the 5 of us got inside a tent for some callous discussion when it started raining. I slid to sleep after a while. But when I got up, I could hear heavy sould of hailstorm and was surprised to see the entire campsite covered in fresh white snow. Most of us shared a single plate for dinner to save ourselves from having to wash it in freezing water! The night was a sleepless one with rocky surface to sleep on and freezing temperature to deal with. There were Himalayan deers roaming our tent late at night.
Above all, how can one get sleep with the excitement of a rendezvous with Roopkund and Junargali the next day?!
Summary:
*Fastrack: Bedini to Bhagubasa can be covered in 1 day (experienced trekkers). About 12kms in all.
*Slowtrack: It can be split into 2 days. Bedini – Patar Nachauni and Patar Nachauni – Kaluvinayak – Baghubasa.
*If there is no snowfall, Pattar Nachauni is the only water source on the route (there are a few small water springs). Hence carry a lot of water.
* Best time to visit : June-July , Sep-Oct.
*Average day temperature : Around 10 degrees. At night it might drop below zero.
*Pattar Nachauni to Kaluvinayak is a very steep climb(about 3 kms).
*Do respect Mountains. Do not throw/dispose plastic.
And the world said…